When the flame lights the 0v or put another way, a neither positive or negative AC voltage, is made slightly more negative by the ions, it's this the electronics then use as the signal to suspend the spark. Technical note, the flame recognition uses negative ions present in a blue gas flame, apart from the 2000v DC spark, the electrode has an AC voltage at 0v present.
#PIEZO IGNITER DIAGRAM MANUAL#
The other is to do as you do now and take the battery out or add a switch to turn it off, there are no safety issues involved as it would be no different to how the manual piezo igniter works. Many good dealer will sell you one on sale or return so that's one option If it was an earth problem then the spark does not stop but the sound of it becomes quite erratic, enough I think that you would mention it.Ĭonnections at the box itself are important as they can cause this problem, easiest though is to swap the unit and if a new one works you've found the problem. I suspect my fix is going to be an expensive (£45) replacement ignitor unit unless anybody has a magic cure please. I have even tried two different makes of gas to see if the flame sensor didn't like the gas I was using, but it made no difference. The problem with this is it stops the fire re-igniting if it blows out or similar The only way I have found to stop it once it is alight is to take out the AA battery from the ignitor unit at the base of the heater. The heater lights perfectly after a few seconds if not immediately once gas is through but it continues to "Tick" away. It was probably a comment from Gary of Arc Systems!! I read somewhere on this forum some time ago that one side of the ignition circuit has to have a good "Ground" connection to the heater body and I have done this. The problem with the ignition when used with gas is that the automatic ignition does not stop sparking when a flame is established. I have a Truma S3002 gas/electric heater fitted in my Bailey Arizona.
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